Govan
is a slightly down at the heels, working class Glasgow neighborhood, but once
it was the seat of power for the kings of Strathclyde. The southside community
hugging the river was the region’s most important Christian stronghold in the 6th
century. As Viking conquerors ousted the Celts, they established their own holy
sites and they left behind remarkable vestiges of their culture. The Govan Old
Church was built in 1888 over the Vikings’ church and burial site.
Archeological digs unearthed 31 intricately carved monuments from the 9–11th
centuries, including a massive sarcophagus and “hogback” stones. The Govan
Stones are displayed throughout the church, which has a small but loyal
congregation that acts as the guardians of this ancient treasure. Every
afternoon, people like us can just wander in and see the stones, which you’d
expect to find in a place like the British Museum rather than a neighborhood
church steps away from a struggling commercial district.
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